Beauty and the Beara!

Some of the stunning views and experiences to be had on a trip through the Beara Peninsula.

Driving across a Mountain Bridge on the Beara Peninsula

Windy roads along the Beara Peninsula

Glanmore Lake

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Island Hopping- West Cork

Forget about going to Greece to go Island Hopping, come to West Cork!

Roaring Water Bay contains many Islands, ranging from Cape Clear, which is the largest, to small uninhabited rocks and reefs. The most famous of these rocks is The Fastnet Rock. This rock stands out in the Atlantic Ocean at the entrance to Roaring Water Bay and is home to the Fasnett Lighthouse- one of the best known Lighthouses in the world. It is also known as the “Tear Drop of Ireland” because it was the last part of Ireland that the emigrants to the New World saw as they left during famine times. It is also the landmark that give its name to the Fastnet Race one of the world’s most famous yacht races run by the Royal Ocean Racing Club.

The most remote Island off of West Cork is Cape Clear, it is 8 miles off shore and is one of the most unspoiled parts of Ireland. The Island is inhabited and the people make their living from farming, fishing and tourism. There is a regular ferry service to Cape Clear from Baltimore with more frequent ferries in the summer.
Sherkin Island is also inhabited and is home to 120 people. It is close to shore being only 15 minutes from Baltimore by ferry. There is a beautiful ruined Franciscan abbey just above the pier on Sherkin. If you would like to spend an afternoon on an unspoiled beach, Sherkin Island is the place to go. It has three beautiful beaches within walking distance from the pier.In the summer you can get a taxi if walking is not your thing.

On a small Island close to the mainland is 15th century Kilcoe Castle. Built by the Mc Carthy Clan in 1603, this castle was last to be taken by the British. It is now owned by the actor Jeremy Irons and his wife Sinead Cusack. They bought the ruined castle and completely refurbished it. The plaster on the outside is a peculiar colour, being orange. This was very controversial at the time it was being done up, with many people objecting to the colour however Mr Irons maintains that this colour was the original colour of the castle in medieval times because the plaster was a mixture of lime, charcoal and animal blood!
From May to September you can take a guided tour of 10 of the islands of Roaring Water Bay. This tour starts and finishes at Baltimore on board the “Mystic Water” and lasts 2 hours. You will see spectacular scenery and wildlife including dolphins, seals and a variety of sea birds.
So for something different and completely natural why not visit the Islands of West Cork.

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Hayfield Manor a place to relax

Hayfield Manor I live about an hour from Cork city and wouldn’t normally consider it as a place for a weekend break but we had visitors and as it turned out Cork was their destination of choice. We decided to give Hayfield Manor a try and we couldn’t have been happier. After a day spent exploring the rugged beauty of west Cork and the pretty fishing town of Kinsale we arrived to the very quiet location in which the hotel is situated close by the pretty campus of University College Cork.

Check in was smooth, professional and friendly. We were taken on a tour of the hotel by Bart,the one man tour de force concierge/doorman/bus boy/tourist information office. He is special. Each time we met him he had a word for us and nothing was too much trouble. It’s like being looked after by your favourite uncle. He is a gem and if you could bottle him the hospitality industry would make you a very rich person indeed. The two rooms we had were similar in size, one facing the garden at the rear one facing front both in the main house.

The rooms were very comfortable with bathrobes and slippers provided and decent sized bathrooms. Ours had a separate shower and bath. The beds were very comfortable which made for a very good night’s sleep. We spent quite a while enjoying the pool, steam room, hot tub and massage chairs. Total relaxation. We went again before breakfast the next morning.

Had a really nice meal in Perrotts bistro, we ate early because we were going to the theatre but the room had a lovely appearance and I’m sure a great atmosphere with more people in it. We took a taxi into and out of the city centre to go the theatre no more than ten minutes each way.

We had a great breakfast in the morning and although the buffet is not as large as at some hotels I’ve stayed, the quality of everything was excellent and we couldn’t have asked for more. The staff were great and because the hotel is not large it has a nice intimate atmosphere. Came away feeling completely relaxed and wished we could have stayed longer.

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An Italian to the rescue

As an Irishman I’d thought that beginning of us ceasing to follow the lead of our English neighbours began with our hard fought break away from the Union in 1921.

Corporate tax breaks, adopting the Euro, public smoking bans and I’ve even heard rumors that the debate is on to convert the Republic to right hand drive, something I think should have been done years ago.

So it would appear that the Football Association of Ireland has not followed suit and have instead opted to follow the example of the English F.A. in opting for a foreigner in their search for a new national team soccer coach. Giovanni Trappatoni has been unveiled with much aplomb at a conference venue in Dublin as the new saviour of Irish soccer just as Fabio Capello was in England a month ago.

If fact the similarities don’t stop there. Both men are Italians in their sixties. Both men come with little or no knowledge of the English language or the English/Irish brand of football. (Virtually all the players on both squads play in the English Premiership.)

Both will have natives working behind the scenes assisting them, in the forms of Liam Brady and Stuart Pearse. Both were appointed after two home grown managerial disasters in Steve Staunton and Steven McClaren were sacked after failing to qualify for Euro 2008. Staunton a native of Ireland’s smallest county, Louth and McClaren were both appointed to their jobs with no prior first team managerial experience.

Is it fair so say that if one finds success or failure the other will too? Either way it will all play out in tandem as the World Cup qualifying campaigns get under way later this year. There is cause for optimism amongst the similarities. Both men come with glittering managerial resumes with each having won seven Scudettos (Italian Serie A Leagues) and one European Cup/Champions League. Both men are renowned for their no nonsense, “my way or the highway” attitude which has naturally brought criticism through out their careers. In February 2006 Trappatoni while managing Stuttgart dropped Danish internationals attackers Jon Dahl Tomasson and Jesper Gronkjaer after they openly critized his style of play. He was sacked the next day.

For his first match with Switzerland last week Fabio Capello unthinkably omitted the international superstar poster boy of world football, David Beckham from his squad, with Beckham just one cap shy of a landmark 100th appearance for his country. Did Beckham think he could succeed where so many greats have failed? Best, Pele, Stoichkov, Valderrama all played in the U.S. in the twilight of their careers in the hope of popularizing the sport there. Soccer is a secondary sport in America and always will be.

Only time will tell if it’s yet another F.A.I. blunder but at the very least it’ll set the bar high for future managerial appointments. Poor results against so called minnow countries, plummeting FIFA World rankings with a team of Premiership stars? Maybe there’s something missing here, motivation perhaps? Gone are the days of the Charlton era of long ball, route one, put ‘em under pressure football; to the joy of admirers of the beautiful game but I remember it yielding results no matter how ugly they came. I anticipate much of the same with our new Italian manager. He comes with a reputation of getting a one nil lead and putting eleven men behind the ball and defending it. It may not be sexy football but it has been proven to get wins.

When I watch Arsenal play Manchester United on a Sunday morning as a neutral observer I want to be entertained and see the beautiful game at its finest. When it comes to my country I want to see the results no matter how they come. International football isn’t just a game. It’s nation against nation.

This blogger endorses Trappatoni.

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Ireland’s Music Scene

Ireland has a wide and diverse range of music to cater for all tastes. Ranging from Traditional Irish to Rock, Pop and Jazz.

Ireland’s most famous artists include Van Morrison, Rory Gallagher, Enya, Mary Black and Christy Moore. Some of Ireland’s most notable bands include U2, Thin Lizzy, The Chieftans and The Thrills. All of these have made their mark on both the Irish and the international stage. Most of these can be seen playing the main stages of Ireland in Dublin, Cork and Killarney, but what of Ireland’s new talent?

Often over looked are the semi-pro musicians on the pub and club scene. Throughout Ireland today we have a wide number of up and coming bands and musicians making their mark on the Irish music scene. Though for the most part they are unknown outside of Ireland, they are gathering a great following around the countryside. Small local gigs are becoming more popular than ever and are easily found in towns throughout Ireland.
All year round there are live bands performing with no need to prebook tickets or stand in endless queues. There are local bands getting great reviews from all angles. The genres vary so there is something for everyone.

Festivals are also attracting visitors from all parts of the world to Ireland to see bands and artists both large and small. The most popular of these festivals and my personal favorite is “electric picnic”. In an attempt to keep up to date with the latest happenings in the Irish music scene and report back on same I do feel the need to attend so watch this space for more on electric picnic the 3 day “boutique” music festival.

Where can you see these new talented musicians? The answer is almost everywhere. Some of the more popular venues for these smaller gigs include Whelans in Dublin, Cyprus Avenue and An Cruiscin in Cork, Waterford, Galway, Kilkenny and Antrim to name but a few. All of these areas are famous for their natural beauty and attractions, and are now becoming more popular for a great night of entertainment. Though most bands are located in Dublin and the major cities, do not be mistaken, there is plenty of opportunity to catch these bands live in the smaller towns of Ireland. Tickets are generally got on the night and are low in cost. Also unlike some major concerts, accommodation is generally not a problem with B&B’s and Hotels available all over Ireland. Event listings are available online or you can simply ask your Discoveringireland Vacation Specialist who will be pleased to recommend gigs and concerts.

So if the next time you are travelling to Ireland you would like to take in a gig or two and U2 are not headlining at The Point in Dublin, do not despair there is plenty of Irish talent waiting to be discovered all over the country!

However for those visitors to Dublin one place guaranteed to give one the best experience in modern international music acts would be at Dublins O2 arena one which regularly holds concerts from the biggest names in music. With plenty of hotels near the O2 in Dublin and many smaller scale national and international gigs up and down the country, for the keen music fan there is much to take note of on a visit to Ireland.

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A poem for Saint Valentines Day

In a poll of the top ten most romantic nations in the world, it’s doubtful if many would vote for Ireland. Irish men have a reputation for being shy and taciturn except after a few beers and with few exceptions, being more interested in sport than their wives or girlfriends.

Ireland does possess however, some of the most romantic landscapes in the world. From the mountains of Mourne in the north east of the island, to the wildness of Connemara in the west, the stunning valleys of the Wicklow mountains in the east such as Glendalough, the windswept romantic coastline of west Cork and the breathtaking majesty of the Dingle peninsula with its stunning marriage of mountains and sea.

Ireland has also produced more than its share of literary heavyweights and there is something within the soul of the Irish that loves to give expression to our innermost thoughts normally through speech and song. One of our most celebrated poets and Nobel prizewinner for literature in 1923 is William Butler (W.B.) Yeats. So as a gift for you to share on this Valentine’s day and as a reply to those who say the Irish are not romantic I give you a poem from W.B. Yeats from the year 1888:

He Wishes for the Cloths of Heaven

Had I the heavens’ embroidered cloths,
Enwrought with golden and silver light,
The blue and the dim and the dark cloths
Of night and light and the half-light,
I would spread the cloths under your feet:
But I, being poor, have only my dreams;
I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.

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Travel to Ireland is best value in many years

Aer Lingus have just announced a sale that has flights to Ireland for only $289 in the peak Summer season and as low as $199 in low season.
I have been watching the price of travel this year and despite the weak dollar combined with expensive oil, a vacation inAer Lingus Ireland in 2008 looks like it will be better value than it has been in quite a few years.

The Aer Lingus sale combined with some great offers from tour operators like DiscoveringIreland means that travelers from the USA or Canada who book early can avail of better value than last year.
For example, DiscoveringIreland’s latest offer of a free night in an Irish Castle added to these great Aer Lingus fares means that you could spend a week in Irish hotels (including flights and rental car) for $972  in July or just $972 in April

If you book your own flights, a week in family run Bed and Breakfast accommodation is available from just $399 per person including rental car which makes Ireland very affordable this year without any compromise on the experience.

Everyone recognizes that 2008 will have its challenges but this response from the Irish tourist industry is sure to see thousands of US visitors yet again come to one of the friendliest tourist destinations in the world.

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The Gathering 2008 – Traditional Music Festival in Killarney

At the end of this month, from Wednesday 20th to Sunday 24th February, one of Ireland’s major cultural events will take place in Killarney: The Gathering, traditional music festival. Now in its ninth year, the festival keeps growing and attracts visitors not only from Ireland but from all over the world, mainly coming from America and Europe.

All lovers of Irish traditional music and Irish dances meet there every year to share their common passion but also to spend a great time with each others. From morning to late in the night, you will find the best of Irish entertainment there. So why not joining the thousands of traditional music fans to experience the legendary Irish “Craic”?

During the day, musicians can attend instruments workshops (Fiddle, Accordeon, Concertina, Flute and Tin Whistle) while the dancers will have their own workshops with Set-dancing classes for children, beginners and advanced “steppers”. The highlights will be of course the Céilís every night, and the concerts, among them Pauline Scanlon and her Band, Lúnasa and Máirtín O’Connor. There will be also late-night music sessions and an all-day singing master-class. And if you want to make a break from all of that effervescence, join the guided walk into the Killarney National Park, or just stroll into Killarney town where you can find a wide choice of shops, restaurants and pubs. Staying overnight won’t be a problem as they are many hotels, B&Bs and self-catering in Killarney or around. But be sure to book in advance for that special event. See you there!

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Pancake Tuesday – A magical time of year

Throughout Ireland and in many other countries, the day before Ash Wednesday – Shrove Tuesday – is commonly known as Pancake Day. This day is celebrated before the beginning of Lent, the fasting time up to Easter. We learn from the historians, that on Shrove Tuesday everybody used up the supplies of fat, butter and eggs. These foods were forbidden during austere Lent. To make pancakes was the best way to do so!

How much can you eat? Try on your own, make up for it this year by gorging yourself until you’ve got pancake batter coming out your ears.

Recipe: Pancakes

100g flour
2 Eggs
200ml milk from West Cork pastures, mixed with 75ml sparkling water

  1. Sift flour into a mixing bowl.
  2. Make a well in the centre of the flour and break the eggs into it
  3. Whisk well
  4. Slowly add the milk and water, whisking as you go
  5. Cook in a pan over a medium heat

Toppings

  • Sugar and lemon juice. It is vitally important that the juice be from a plastic lemon. Otherwise it may as well be any other day of the week because it’s just not Pancake Tuesday without plastic lemon.
  • Nutella. Nothing else. Okay, maybe ice cream. You’ll be bouncing off the walls for days.
  • Bacon and maple syrup. Friend in work gave me a bottle of maple syrup from Canada, since all I seem to be able to find in Dublin is maple-flavored Golden Syrup.
  • Blueberries. Awesome when they’re dropped into the batter as it cooks in the pan.

Tuesday Pancake

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Why Finn McCool is Still Cool?

Giants Causeway

Finn McCool, a 52 ½ feet tall Irish hunter-warrior was known as a friendly giant and is something of a symbol for County Antrim hospitality today. People could often see him and his wife Oonagh gazing across the sea waving to the Scottish Giant to come over for a visit. The sea of Moyle being something of a challenge between the Irish and Scottish coasts, Finn decided to build a bridge from the many hexagonal stones that lay strewn along the shoreline. What happened next you can read at the World Heritage Site yourself- the Giant’s Causeway.

Maybe the pathway was an easy access later in the 17th century to the Scottish & English settlers making Ulster a fertile soil for plantation – to read more about this facet of Irish history check here – Modern Ireland.

This is a story about what you can see in Northern Ireland and especially on its coastline.

Northern Ireland consists of six of the nine counties of the province of Ulster, lying in the northeast of the island of Ireland, covering 14,139 km2. It has its own government – the Northern Ireland Assembly and currency being the pound sterling – it is effectively a part of Britain with its own unique identity, like Scotland and Wales.

Donegal is a good access point into Northern Ireland if you have traveled from the west coast of Ireland for example. The city of Derry or Londonderry (depending on your politics) is very close to the border with Donegal county, a border which no longer exists physically on the ground but is merely a line on a map nowadays. The Tower Museum and the Museum of Free Derry offers a detailed and intriguing story of the city’s history.

Not being a city girl myself I bypassed Derry towards the coastline during a lovely sunny day back iMussenden Templen June 2007. I was well impressed by the sandy beaches of Portrush and Portstewart and a stop at the Mussenden Temple was a relaxing lunch break in County Londonderry. I could see the Downhill castle standing high on a hilltop from the car. It is rather a roofless shell after a fire in 1851 however the charming glen planted with wild flowers and the enquiring looks of the sheep lead you to the clifftop where the temple stands. It is a memorial for Mrs. Mussenden built for her as a library by her cousin the Bishop of Derry. The splendid view is well worth
the time to get there.

A perfect overnight stay is in the village of Bushmills in County Antrim. Just a stone’s throw away is the Giants Causeway. You need good shoes and fine weather to enjoy the most breathtaking and inspiring coastline. I can still feel the strangeness of this place and Thackeray has expressed his feelings about the Causeway with the following: “When the world was moulded and fashioned out of formless chaos, this must have been the bit over – a remnant of chaos”.

You can enjoy a good twenty- minute walk from the Causeway to Carrick- a -Rede, the island which can only be reached by the perilous swinging rope bridge. It was erected by salmon fishermen to allow them access to a valuable fishing spot from where they would cast their nets into the sea. If it is a very windy day the bridge may be closed; something for which you may be thankful. If it is open you will need very steady pair of legs and must not be afraid of heights in order to cross and take some hard earned photos on the bridge itself.

From the Northern tip I headed to the Glens of Antrim. The uniqueness of the glens are the variations of a natural landscape including vertical cliffs, tundra plateaus and glacial valleys. Hugging the coastline are timeless fishing villages like Ballycastle, Glenarm and Cushendall where you can easily find a farmhouse B&B for the night.

The next morning a lovely walk in the Glenariff Forest Park ended with a picnic. As I have missed taking forest walks in West Cork where I live, I thoroughly enjoyed the one hour hike and taking pictures of the waterfall known as the Ess na Larach. It tumbles through a wooded gorge created by the Glenariff River.

I suppose no journey to Northern Ireland is complete without a peak into Belfast. It is a bustling city with its many new chic hotels and modern bars .The Ulster Folk and Transport Museum seven miles east of the city adds a bit of unusual flavor. It is an Open Air folk museum that illustrates the way of living in the 1900s.

Before heading home I had come to the conclusion that the country of Finn McCool is well worth visiting. A rental car with an Irish plate, no borders and few pounds sterling in my pocket, I dashed through Northern Ireland in just 3 days but it still left me haunted by the memories of its nature and its landscape.

I stand amid the roar
Of a surf-tormented shore,
And I hold within my hand
Grains of the golden sand–
How few! yet how they creep
Through my fingers to the deep,
While I weep–while I weep!
O God! can I not grasp
Them with a tighter clasp?
O God! can I not save
One from the pitiless wave?
Is all that we see or seem
But a dream within a dream?

(E. A. Poe)

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